Our crew lays out the slab, digs down to firm ground and packs the subgrade, which is the soil the slab sits on, because a base that's only raked level settles later and takes the slab with it. Next come the gravel, the plastic sheeting, the forms and the rebar, the steel inside that holds the slab together when the ground moves, and I walk you through those layers and show you where the control joints will fall before any concrete covers them. Control joints are the lines we cut or form into the slab so that when concrete shrinks and cracks, it cracks along them and not across the middle of a room. We pour in the cooler part of the day so the top doesn't dry too fast and turn weak and dusty, then finish it and keep it damp while it cures. If your lot has clay, we'll talk through whether a post-tensioned design, with steel cables tightened after the pour, is worth raising with an engineer. And if the budget gets tight, I'll argue for keeping the money in the base and trimming somewhere else, because nobody sees the base on day one, but it's what decides whether the slab stays flat.
A slab is often one piece of a bigger job. If your plans call for a raised floor or stem walls, our foundation installation work covers that, and the same base, steel and joint planning carries over to concrete parking lot building for small business and property owners who need a lot that holds up under daily traffic.
Slab for a new home or rebuild
This suits a cleared lot where the whole footprint starts fresh, so we can grade the full site, set the drainage and lay the base in one go. It's also where the soil question matters most, since the slab carries every wall in the house.
Slab for an addition, ADU or garage
This suits a house that's staying put, where the new slab has to meet the old foundation at the right height and the crew often works in a narrow side yard. Tight access is the kind of job we like, and I'll figure out how we get concrete back there before I price it.