We're a concrete contractor based in Torrance, CA, pouring driveways, patios, walkways and steps for Lynwood homeowners. I start every job by looking at what's under the old slab, because that's what decides how the new one holds up.
(424) 318-3115
A lot of the Lynwood jobs we see are older single-family houses on narrow lots, and the concrete shows its age. We see long driveways running back to a garage with cracks that open wider every year, broken aprons where the drive meets the street, and patios that were added later and poured over whatever dirt was there.
The first thing I want to know is what's under the old slab, because that's usually where the trouble started. Water pooling by the back door, a walk that tips toward the house or a slab that's sunk at one corner usually point to the base or the drainage, and a new top poured over the same problem just starts the clock again.
Send the form or call (424) 318-3115, and we'll reply within one business day to set a time. I come out to your Lynwood house myself, look at the slab and what's under it, and write the estimate on site. It's free, and there's no obligation.
(424) 318-3115Most of our Lynwood calls are driveways that have cracked and dropped at the garage end, patios poured over raked dirt, walkways lifted by roots and front steps pulling away from the house. We tear out and replace driveways, pour patios and sidewalks, rebuild front and back steps through our concrete steps construction work, lay garage floors, cut through old slabs for new work and build retaining walls where a yard changes height.
In Lynwood, the city's Building and Safety Division issues building permits and reviews plans for building, repair and demolition work inside city limits, while work in the right-of-way, the public strip along the street, falls outside that review. Before we schedule anything, I check with the division on what your job needs, and if a permit is called for, we handle the paperwork with you, since a review can move the start date. On your end, make sure whoever you hire holds a current state contractor license, which the FAQ below covers. If you own a business, the city's plan checklist also asks for Lynwood business license approval on tenant improvement submittals. What moves the price is the size and thickness of the slab, how much old concrete and soft dirt has to come out, how far we carry material to reach the spot, and the finish you pick, and I spell out each of those in your estimate.
We come over from Torrance and work the same streets in Paramount and Compton next door, so a Lynwood job fits into the week alongside work nearby. On a lot of Lynwood lots the mixer can't get close to a back patio, so we decide before pour day whether to pump it, run wheelbarrows down the side yard or come in off the alley, because concrete won't wait while anyone figures it out. In summer we start pours early so the top doesn't dry out in the afternoon heat and turn weak and dusty later.
I'm the one who comes out to your Lynwood house, looks at the slab, asks what's under it and writes the estimate. Then I work alongside our crew on the job, so the person who promised you the base is there packing it.
If a budget has to give, I'd cut the fancy finish before the base, because a stamped top over raked dirt settles with the dirt. We dig out to firm ground, pack the subgrade, which is the layer the slab sits on, and check where the water runs.
Since starting our company in Torrance in 2023, we've become known for the awkward jobs, like a patio behind a house with a narrow side yard, a cut through an old slab or a wall sitting right on the property line. We plan the access before pour day.
We're licensed and fully insured, and our promise is satisfaction guaranteed. I want you to know what you're paying for before we start, so the estimate lists the tear-out, base, thickness and finish. Call (424) 318-3115 or use the form to ask about your project.
Your price comes down to the size of the slab, how much old concrete and dirt has to come out, the base work, how hard the spot is to reach and the finish you choose. A plain broom finish, the light brushed texture that gives tires and shoes some grip, costs less than stamped or colored work. I measure on site and put each of those pieces in writing, so you can see where the money goes.
The city's permit list names jobs like water heaters, re-roofs and solar, not driveways or patios, so the list alone doesn't settle it, which is why I check before we schedule. Anything reaching into the right-of-way is its own matter, because an undated city submittal document says that work needs a separate encroachment permit. The apron where your driveway meets the street usually sits in that strip, so I look at it closely at the estimate.
An undated city submittal document says a separate grading permit is required once the soil disturbed on a job passes a set amount, so a big dig-out can cross that line even when the slab itself is simple. A driveway tear-out with deep soft soil underneath, or a retaining wall that reshapes a slope, moves far more dirt than a patio swap. I figure how much is coming out at the estimate and check it with the city before we dig.
Yes, in most cases, because the state contractor board requires a current license for anyone contracting on a job that needs a building permit, using employees, or taking on work worth $1,000 or more in combined labor and materials. The only way around it is a job under $1,000 with no permit, no employees and no claim of being licensed, and very few slab jobs fit all of that.
Type your address into EQ Zapp, the state geological survey's map tool, and it shows whether your property lies within any of the survey's mapped earthquake hazard zones. If it flags your lot and you're planning footings, a foundation or a retaining wall, tell me at the estimate so we can talk it through before anything gets designed.
You're off it until the concrete has cured, which is the wait while it hardens and gains strength, and you'll walk on it well before you can drive on it. The wait depends on the mix and the weather, so I give you walk-on and drive-on dates when we schedule and keep the slab blocked off until then. The tear-out and base work come first, so plan on parking on the street from tear-out until the drive-on date.
Most cracks come from a base that was raked level instead of dug out and packed, water getting under the slab, a pour in midday heat, or control joints that were cut late or skipped. Control joints are the straight grooves cut into the slab so that when concrete shrinks and cracks, as it does, it cracks in the groove where you won't notice. We pack the base, slope the slab away from the house, pour early and cut joints on time, and we add rebar, the steel inside that holds the pieces together, where the slab needs it.
