I start with two questions, what traffic the lot has to carry, delivery trucks included, and how rainwater needs to leave the site, because those answers set the thickness and the grades. We put the planned thickness in writing so you can hold every bid to the same standard. Then our crew digs out to firm ground and packs the subgrade, the soil the slab sits on, and builds the base up in layers so it doesn't settle later along with loose dirt. We set forms to grades that carry water away from buildings, place rebar, the steel that holds the slab together if it does crack, and pour in the cooler part of the day so the top doesn't come out weak and dusty. A broom finish gives tires and shoes some grip, control joints get cut on time so cracks land in straight lines we picked, and the slab cures, which is the wait while it gains strength, before anyone parks on it. If the budget gets tight, I'd rather drop a decorative extra than skimp on the base, because the base is the part nobody sees on day one and the part that decides whether the lot stays flat.
A lot usually touches other work. Light poles, a carport or a block wall at the edge sit on concrete footings, the buried concrete that holds them up, and it's easier to pour those before the paving goes in. If the building next to the lot has settled and its doorway sits low, we look at foundation raising first, so the new slab meets the door at the right height instead of locking the problem in.
A new lot on bare ground
This suits a gravel or dirt yard that ruts and floods when it rains. We grade it, build the base from scratch and set the drainage before any concrete arrives, which is often simpler than a tear-out because nothing old is hiding underneath.
Replacing old cracked paving
This suits a lot that's sinking, broken or pooling water. We cut out and haul away the old surface, then take a hard look at what was under it, because a failed base is usually why the old paving failed and pouring over it would repeat the problem.